How to Buy the Right First Surfboard (And Avoid the Mistakes That Make People Quit Surfing)

Written By henry porter

Buying your first surfboard is exciting. It’s also where a lot of people quietly make the decision that determines whether surfing becomes a lifelong pursuit… or something that gathers dust in the garage.

Surfing is a hard sport to learn. Unlike most sports, you don’t just turn up and practice. You need the right conditions, the right location, and the time to get there. Unless you live close to the ocean, chances are you can’t surf as regularly as you’d like either.

In a two-hour session, you might only get 20 seconds of actual surfing.

That reality changes how you should think about buying your first board.

This guide is here to reset expectations, save you money, and help you choose a surfboard that gives you the best chance of catching waves, improving, and actually enjoying the process.

Why Most People Buy the Wrong First Surfboard

The eagerness to jump straight onto a shortboard is completely understandable.

They look cool.
They’re light.
They’re easy to carry.

And they’re ridden by surfers who make everything look effortless.

What’s easy to forget is that the people surfing shortboards have usually been surfing consistently for years — often since they were kids. They’ve already built paddle fitness, timing, positioning, and ocean awareness.

When beginners copy that equipment choice, they’re skipping the foundations.

The Reality of Learning to Surf

Early on, surfing is about:

  • Building paddle fitness

  • Catching as many waves as possible

  • Developing awareness in the water

  • Learning positioning, timing, and etiquette

A small, low-volume board makes all of that harder.

The result?

  • Fewer waves

  • Slower improvement

  • More frustration

Unless your board is missing a fin or snapped in two, it’s rarely the board’s fault. Sometimes the conditions aren’t ideal — but if you chose to paddle out, that’s part of surfing too.

Buying a board that’s too small is often the core reason people quit surfing altogether.

Resetting Expectations: What Your First Board Is Actually For

Your first surfboard is not your “forever board”.

It’s the first board in your quiver.

In surfing, you rarely sell boards — you build a collection that lets you surf more conditions. That’s why it’s so hard to find a good second-hand beginner board. Everyone loves their first board, and they keep it for fun summer days or small surf.

For the first couple of years, volume and length are your best investment.

That usually means:

  • 8ft+

  • High volume

  • Forgiving rails

  • Easy paddling and wave catching

A bigger board allows you to:

  • Catch more waves

  • Improve faster

  • Build fitness naturally

  • Spend more time standing, not paddling

The goal early on is simple: maximize wave count.

What Happens When a Board Is Too Small (From Real Experience)

When someone buys a board that’s too small too early, the pattern is almost always the same:

  • They catch fewer waves

  • Progress stalls

  • Frustration builds

  • Sessions become shorter and less frequent

They start blaming:

  • The conditions

  • The crowd

  • The equipment

But in reality, they’ve made surfing harder than it needs to be.

There’s an old saying for a reason: the poor man buys twice.

Buying the right board early saves you money, time, and motivation.

Matching Your Board to the Conditions You’ll Actually Surf

Most beginners surf:

  • Beach breaks

  • Small waves

  • 1–3ft (ankle to chest high)

For those conditions, you want a board that’s:

  • Long

  • Stable

  • High volume

  • Forgiving

Why Shape Matters

Beginner-friendly boards typically have:

  • A flatter rocker (less curve from nose to tail)

  • More foam under the chest for paddling

  • Wider outlines for stability

These features help you get into waves earlier, stand up more consistently, and stay balanced while learning.

If you’re surfing beach breaks with soft, inconsistent waves, a minimal or longboard simply gives you more opportunity to succeed.

Surfing Goals: You’re Not Locking Yourself Into Anything

A common fear is:
“But what if I want to shortboard later?”

That’s the wrong way to think about it.

Soul Surfer / Walking the Board

Perfect. Think of your first board as:

  • Your first longboard

  • And probably your smallest longboard

You’ll use it forever on small, clean days.

Competitive / Shortboard Focus

Even better.

A high-volume board will:

  • Help you progress faster

  • Build paddle fitness

  • Become your perfect summer board

Without it, you’re stuck compensating with gym sessions or running — and let’s be honest, that’s not why most people got into surfing.

Your first board doesn’t decide your future.
It enables it.

Accessories: The Hidden Money Trap (And How to Avoid It)

This is where beginners quietly overspend.

Surf shops will often discount accessories when you buy a board — take advantage of it.

Leash

  • Should be equal to the length of your board

  • Especially important on longer boards (yes, even if you’re dreaming of hang tens)

Fins

  • Match the fin system (usually FCS II or Futures)

  • Avoid expensive fins early

  • $20 plastic fins work perfectly while learning

Those $150–$250 carbon fins? They’ll get ground into the sand just like everything else.

Board Bag

Ask any surfer how they got a ding in their board and you’ll see a moment of pain.

Boards rarely break in the water.
They break in garages and car parks.

Buy:

  • A padded board bag

  • A few inches longer than your board (future-proofing matters)

Wax

Say it together:
Soft tops don’t need wax.

For hard boards:

  • Base coat

  • Correct wax for water temperature

  • Wax comb

Transport & Storage

Before buying roof racks:

  • Fold down rear seats

  • Recline the front seat

  • Remove the headrest

  • Feed the board through carefully

At home:

  • Store boards in low-traffic areas

  • Avoid corners and tight exits

  • Protect both the board and your walls

Custom Boards: When They Make Sense (And When They Don’t)

Custom boards are incredible — at the right time.

Most off-the-rack boards exist because:

  • They worked for someone

  • Their friends liked them

  • Demand grew naturally

For beginners, the only noticeable difference with a custom board is:

  • Your name on the bottom

  • The colour

You won’t yet feel or appreciate subtle refinements in rocker, rails, or foil.

To truly benefit from a custom board, you need:

  • Experience on multiple boards

  • A clear understanding of what you want to change

Until then, you’re paying for aesthetics, not performance.

The One Thing That Matters Most

If there’s one thing to remember, it’s this:

Volume and length are your friends.

You’re not buying your only surfboard.
You’re buying the first of many.

Buy the board that:

  • Lets you catch waves easily

  • Builds confidence

  • Makes sessions fun

  • Gets you surfing more often

If people start calling you a wave hog, you’ve chosen well.

That’s how surfing becomes part of your life — not just something that gathers dust in the garage.

Final Thought

Surfing rewards patience, consistency, and smart choices.

The right board won’t do the work for you — but the wrong one will make everything harder than it needs to be.

If you’re unsure, get advice from people who surf regularly, in the conditions you’ll actually be surfing. And if you want quality gear from people who genuinely understand beginners and progressing surfers, Strapper Surf is a solid place to start.

Choose well. Catch more waves. And enjoy the process.

henry porter
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